Restauro Peugeot 404 Coupé Iniezione in Canada

[Mike T.]

Saturday I'm going to rebuild the AEG/KF fuel lift pump with a kit supplied by my buddy Peter van Deukeren from the Netherlands.

The tiny bearings:


The shaft seal:


The kit:


My two AEG PLF 5 pumps:



And today, because I couldn't find the original clips for the dash pad, I made these out of 1mm thick spare rocker panel/sill material. They now have to be covered with a thin layer of black vinyl. They join the top of the soft dashboard pad with the soft A-pillar trims. Each one has been shaped by hand to fit each side very well.

[Mike T.]

Dashboard clips covered with vinyl.



Passenger side:


Driver's side.


It was a pretty decent effort, I am pleased with the result.

[Mike T.]

Dismantling of the AEG/KF fuel lift pump.

A little bit of electrical tape over the motor's drive pinion facilitated the armature's extraction from the pump body without in any way damaging the original grease seal, which is still supple. So I will leave it in place and use the same technique to re-insert the pinion through this seal.


The freed armature.


Making up some different sized slotted washers in the garage made short work of extracting the tiny drive pinion and nearly as tiny bearings.


Armature mounted on a drill in a vise so I could polish the commutator/slip ring with fine emery cloth.


Comparison between the armature of my car (4598609) on the right and that of a scrapped Canadian Cabriolet (6800519) on the left. 4598609 has done 83,000 miles. I bought the entire drivetrain from 6800519 in 1982, and at least the electric motor seems to show the traces of more like 200.000 miles...

[Mike T.]

Today I pressed the new bearings onto the motor shaft with a vise and then the pinion gear after it was inserted into and through the grease seal in the underside of the motor mounting plate. Checked the length of the original brushes: 6 mm and 9 mm....too short, so I looked in my spare parts stock and found two new or nearly new ones, both 12 mm long. Then the motor was tested and it was SO smooth!



Next task: the hydraulic part of the pump, which sits below the electrical part.

[Mike T.]

Today I reassembled the hydraulic part od the AEG/KF PLF5A fuel lift pump.

Bad surprise: despite the excellent condition of the electrical part of the original pump that equipped my car, the same could not be said of the hydraulic part. The idler pinion inside the pump chamber was seized to its shaft! The last time I ran the engine was about 2005 so the seizure occurred after that....I presume after I disassembled the car in 2016. Also, the lower plate that covers the pump chamber has a regulation valve that is supposed to be removed and checked during a rebuild like this and it too was seized! Anyway, all was not lost...

...because I have a spare lift pump from a car I used to own in 1981-1985 and its hydraulic portion was perfect. All it needed was a thorough cleaning.


Cleaning nearly done and the last bits about to go back together....


And it's together. I did another dry run test with it all assembled and it sounded good. I should try a pump test, I suppose, though I have no reason to think it won't pump.

[Mike T.]

Last weekend I repainted the rearview mirror body and reassembled and mounted it.  Harry was giving me a hard time over not yet having done that!  Quite rightly!





Second time doing the driver's door panel.  The window winder was not happy staying in place and that was down to the padding under the vinyl being too thick next to the embellisher.  I also had to remount the lower part of the vinyl in order to slightly recontour the lower edge to better fit. And finally, the screws under the armrest were mounted.



I got new lifters and timing chain tensioner from Alveas in France, and two sets of NGK BP7ES from Rock Auto.

[Mike T.]

New lap belts made in USA for the 404C, in dark blue.

[Mike T.]

Seat belts mounted


High temperature paint on the brake shoes - rear linings need to be changed


Whipped the brush holder out of the the SEV-Motorola alternator - dirty inside


Brush holder before cleaning


clean slip rings


Remounting. (the bolts holding the brush holder in are 1/8 inch, which is neither nor 5.5 mm. American parts!

[bassplayer]

the bolts holding the brush holder in are 1/8 inch, which is neither nor 5.5 mm. American parts!
Has this been a frequent issue?

[Mike T.]

the bolts holding the brush holder in are 1/8 inch, which is neither 6 nor 5.5 mm. American parts!
Has this been a frequent issue?

No, I think the fact that Motorola was a US company meant that a few imperial sized parts were used in the car when new. SEV-Motorola was the original alternator. I had a typo in the post you quoted - I meant to write "neither 6 nor 5.5 mm".

[Mike T.]

In early July I mounted the rear brake shoes and connected the handbrake, which works again for the first time in years.




A few days later I put the front wheel cylinders together with new parts:


nd I did an autopsy on the old oil pump. Wow, was it ever badly worn!! The new oil pump has a different form than the original so I had to find another screen for the oil pump pickup that is screwed into the sump....


Then I mounted the front brakes...

[Mike T.]

You will recall that my car's camshaft had oil starvation damage to the first two cams, so I ordered a new old stock Injection KF2 camshaft from Loewendoctor in Germany :


and for my new form oil pump mentioned above, I got a new oil screen from l'Aventure Peugeot:

[Mike T.]

And finally last weekend I got my latest powder coated items back - here photographed in my smart fortwo's open tailgate, in the light rain:

Valve cover
Oil sump
Timing cover steel plate
Spare wheel
Ignition coil holder

[Mike T.]

I don't know if having removable brass sludge traps in a forged steel crankshaft is a common thing, but Peugeots had that for a long time, from the 1940s through the 1980s.  It's tempting not to remove the hex-headed brass plugs because they are staked in place and unstaking (reversing the damage to the thread) is difficult and it's easy to damage the brass, in which case the plug will have to be drilled out.  I am using a Dremel to do the unstaking.

The first one I tried before the Dremel is now stuck.  This one worked better.

Inside the trap, there is a medium grey deposit that looks as though it might be part of the casting is sludge, the consistency of slightly moist clay.  There is not a lot of oil passage left clear and a couple of the oiling points on the front centre and rear mains were partially blocked too.  Ao, if restoring a Peugeot engine if the XC or XM/XN series, don't skip this step!

I also got from Jean-Marc Faivre in France a free pair of the banjo fittings for the front brakes that my car has likely been missing for three years! Very generous!

[Mike T.]

These are the photos that should have been in the post above.